French cut

A French cut is a style of women's brief underwear characterized by leg openings that sit high on the thigh, typically 2 to 3 inches below the natural waistline when worn. The defining feature is the diagonal or angled seam that runs from the side seam toward the center front and back, creating a longer line across the hip and thigh. This cut exposes more of the leg than traditional briefs while still providing full hip coverage.

The construction differs from other brief styles in panel layout and seam placement. Standard briefs have vertical or slightly curved side seams; French cuts use a high-cut leg opening that requires repositioning the gusset (crotch panel) and adjusting the overall garment geometry. This demands different patternmaking and grading for each size, as the angle and length of the diagonal seam must scale proportionally across the size range from XS to XL.

Manufacturers typically produce French cut briefs from nylon, polyester microfiber, cotton blends, or all-cotton, depending on market positioning and end use. The high leg opening creates challenges in elastic application, as the leg opening edges are longer and require more shirring or specific elastic weights to maintain shape and prevent rolling during wear. Quality issues often center on elastic migration at the leg opening and uneven fabric tension across the diagonal seams.

French cut briefs occupy the middle ground between traditional full-coverage briefs and high-cut styles like bikinis and thongs. They appeal to consumers seeking thigh exposure for aesthetic or comfort reasons without transitioning to minimal-coverage garments. The style emerged in mainstream markets during the 1980s and remains a core SKU in most intimate apparel ranges.