cotillion

Cotillion is a plain-weave or twilled woollen fabric traditionally woven for women's skirts and dresses. It is a medium-weight cloth, typically between 10 and 14 ounces per square yard, made from carded woollen yarns in either single or ply construction. The fabric has a smooth face and is often finished with a light nap or brushing to enhance softness and reduce shine, distinguishing it from harder-wearing tweeds or suitings.

The weave structure varies slightly depending on mill practice. Plain-weave cotillions are simple and economical; twilled versions offer better drape and a subtle diagonal pattern that can conceal wear and wrinkles more effectively than plain cloth. Dye is applied either to the raw fibre before carding or to the finished cloth, depending on the desired colour match and economy. Natural browns, greys, blacks, and muted shades were historically standard, though brighter dyes became common in the twentieth century.

Cotillion undergoes several finishing processes. After weaving, the cloth is scoured to remove oils and dirt, then fulled to tighten and compact the weave. A light brushing or napping follows to raise surface fibres and soften the hand feel. Some mills applied a thin dressing or starch finish to improve body and handle in the finished garment. The fabric was cut on the bias or straight grain depending on the desired silhouette and drape required for the skirt style.

Cotillion competed with cotton-and-wool unions and synthetic blends from the 1950s onward. Its density and resilience made it suitable for both everyday and better-quality skirts, though it required careful pressing and, being woollen, was subject to moth damage and pilling with heavy wear. The term has largely fallen out of modern mill parlance, replaced by more precise fibre and construction specifications.