double knitting
A form of knitting in which two fabrics (connected or not) are knitted simultaneously with two yarns on one pair of needles.
Double knitting: two fabrics at once on one needle
Double knitting produces two layers of fabric in a single pass through the needles, using two yarns of contrasting colors worked on one pair of needles. The two fabrics remain connected along their edges, creating a reversible textile with yarn color appearing on opposite sides. This differs fundamentally from knitting two pieces separately: the connection is integral, not sewn.
The technique works by alternating yarn positions. On each needle pass, the knitter works one color from the yarn held in front, then switches to the second color held in back, executing stitches that trap both yarns within the fabric structure. This creates a double-thickness knit that is thicker and warmer than single-knit of equivalent fiber content. The result shows color A on the front face and color B on the back face, with each side displaying the reverse of the other's pattern.
Double knitting appears in hand knitting and industrial production. Machine-knit double knit fabrics, produced on flat or circular knitting machines, typically show a smooth face and more uniform stitch definition than hand versions. Industrial double knit often incorporates synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon for stability. Hand knitters typically work smaller garments and favor wool or wool blends. The thickness of finished double knit ranges from worsted to bulky weight equivalent, depending on yarn thickness and stitch density.
Common problems include tension imbalance between the two yarns, which creates uneven fabric thickness and visible pulling on one side. Color bleeding occurs when darker yarns dye-transfer into lighter ones during finishing if the dyes lack adequate fastness. Stitch definition suffers if the yarns are too close in thickness, since one yarn then dominates the surface appearance.
The term reflects the mechanical reality: two knits created simultaneously. This is distinct from intarsia (pattern changes within one layer) or slip-stitch colorwork (single layer with floats). Double knit fabrics find use in reversible sweaters, scarves, and blankets where both faces have equal visual weight, and in industrial applications requiring insulation and durability without seaming two pieces together.