hem
The border of an article of clothing doubled back and stitched together to finish the edge and prevent it from fraying.
hem: a stitched fold that stops fabric edges unraveling
A hem is a finished edge on fabric where the raw edge is folded back on itself and secured with stitching. The fold typically runs parallel to the edge, creating a double layer of material that encloses the raw fibers and prevents fraying. On garments like trousers, skirts, and sleeves, the hem is usually between 1 and 3 inches deep, though this varies by garment type and intended use.
The simplest hem involves folding the fabric edge once or twice and running a line of stitching, often called a blind stitch, that catches threads inside the fold so it is barely visible from the outside. Larger production runs use industrial hemming machines that can fold, stitch, and cut simultaneously at speeds exceeding 1000 items per hour. Specialized equipment includes blind hemming machines for trousers and automated systems that press the fold before stitching.
Common hem types and problems
A single-fold hem uses one fold of fabric; a double-fold hem uses two, creating a stronger, more finished appearance. Rolled hems on lightweight fabrics like silk and chiffon involve minimal material and are done by hand or on special machines. Problems arise when the fold width is uneven, creating visible irregularities on the finished garment, or when stitching tension is wrong, causing puckering or loose threads. Poor needle choice for the fabric weight can cause skipped stitches or fabric damage.
The name derives from the Old English hem, referring to a border or edge. In industrial settings, hems are often the final step before pressing and folding. Quality control typically checks hem length, stitch regularity, and thread tension. The cost of hemming is significant in mass production, so many lower-priced garments use faster methods like cover stitching or fused tape instead of traditional stitching.
Hemming machines are classified by stitch type: lockstitch, chain stitch, or cover stitch. Thread weight, needle size, and machine speed must be adjusted for fabric density and fiber content. On technical fabrics like polyester blends used in workwear, the hem must remain secure through repeated washing and industrial laundering at temperatures up to 160 degrees Fahrenheit.