marabou
A kind of thrown raw silk, naturally nearly white, but capable of being dyed without scouring.
marabou: raw silk that takes dye straight from the cocoon
Marabou is a class of raw silk yarn produced by twisting together two or more single filaments drawn directly from silk cocoons, with minimal processing. Unlike most commercial silk, marabou requires no scouring, bleaching, or chemical preparation before dyeing. The natural sericin (gum) that binds the filaments together actually aids dye uptake, making it an efficient material for producers who want to move quickly from raw fiber to dyed goods.
The name derives from the French marabout, though its connection to the actual marabou stork is obscure and possibly folk etymological. What matters in the trade is the material's practical profile: it starts nearly white to pale cream, takes acid dyes and some synthetic dyes readily, and produces a handle that sits between raw tussah silk and fully processed cultivated silk. The yarn remains slightly nubby and textured compared to degummed silk, which some mills prefer for aesthetic reasons.
Marabou's main advantage is cost and speed. Skipping the energy-intensive scouring step saves time and chemicals, lowering both expenses and environmental load. The trade-off is limited color range compared to fully processed silk, and the yarn can feel coarser and less lustrous. Some dyers report uneven color uptake in thick yarns if the sericin remains too heavy, or oversaturation if not controlled. Batch variation is also higher since the raw material varies more than degummed silk.
In use, marabou finds its place in dress fabrics, linings, and decorative textiles where the natural texture is an asset rather than a liability. Lightweight marabou is common in women's wear; heavier counts appear in jacquard weaves and mixed-fiber blends. Quality houses often source it for pieces where authenticity and minimal processing are selling points. Industrial users appreciate it for small runs and seasonal stock where the speed of dyeing matters more than perfect consistency.