A bag stitched to an item of clothing, used for carrying small items.
pocket: a sewn enclosure for holding small objects
In garment construction, a pocket is a fabric pouch stitched to the exterior or interior surface of clothing, designed to hold small personal items. The pocket consists of a facing piece (the visible part) and a bag piece (the hidden interior), both cut from fashion fabric or lining material and joined along three sides to the garment body. Pockets range from simple patch pockets on work trousers to complex welted pockets on tailored jackets, each type requiring different pattern pieces and sewing sequences.
The main variants are patch pockets, which sit on top of the garment surface; inseam pockets, which are set into a side seam; and welt or bound pockets, which have a reinforced opening and are common in formal wear and outerwear. Patch pockets are fastest to produce and require minimal pattern adjustment. Inseam pockets save the garment from bulk but require precise seam placement. Welt pockets demand careful topstitching and reinforcement strips (welts or binding) to prevent the opening from stretching and distorting with use.
The pocket bag itself is typically 15 to 25 centimeters deep depending on garment type and intended contents. Fabric choice matters significantly: fashion fabric is used for visible facings, while the bag is often cut from lighter cotton lawn or lining to reduce bulk and cost. The bottom corners of the bag are reinforced with bar tacks or triangular stitching to prevent tearing from the stress of loading and unloading items repeatedly.
Common problems include pocket gape, where the opening pulls away from the garment body, usually caused by inadequate reinforcement or low-quality interfacing in the facing. Pocket bags also split along the seams if the thread count or stitch type is insufficient for the expected wear. Functional pockets positioned poorly (too high, too far back, or too small) become unusable, which is why pattern grading and placement markers are critical in production.
The term 'pocket' derives from Old French poque, meaning a small pouch or bag. In industrial sewing, pockets are classified as a separate operation: pattern marking, cutting, facing preparation, attachment, and finishing are often handled by different specialists or machines on the assembly line. Quality control checks pocket attachment angle, stitching consistency, bag durability, and functionality (the opening should not be so tight that items jam or snag).