WOF

Width of fabric, or WOF, is the dimension measured perpendicular to the selvage, from one finished edge to the other across a bolt or roll of woven or knitted material. It is the practical working width available to cutters and sewers, and it directly constrains how pattern pieces can be nested and cut. For a given fiber content and weight, WOF is fixed by the loom or knitting machine that produced the cloth.

Standard WOF values vary by fabric type and end use. Cotton quilting prints typically come at 44 to 45 inches; upholstery fabrics range from 54 to 60 inches; apparel knits often run 58 to 70 inches; industrial canvas and webbing may be 36 to 72 inches or wider. European mills often specify WOF in centimeters, with 140 to 150 cm common for garment cloth. A bolt or roll is always labeled with its WOF so that a cutter knows how much linear yardage is needed to fit a given cutting lay.

The selvage, the tightly finished edge running parallel to the warp, is excluded from WOF. Some cloth is finished with a selvage on both sides; others have selvage on one side only. The selvage itself is typically 0.5 to 1 inch wide and must be trimmed away or folded under before use. If a pattern spec calls for 60 inches of usable width, the bolt width between selvages must be at least that measurement.

Relevance to yield and cost

WOF is critical to manufacturing economics. A cutting lay for a garment is designed around a specific WOF; if actual cloth measures narrower, pieces cannot be nested as planned, waste increases, and more yardage must be ordered to meet a production run. Conversely, cloth that comes wider than specified is an asset but may require new lay designs to realize the benefit. In contract manufacturing, disputes sometimes arise over whether delivered goods match the stated WOF.

Shrinkage during finishing can reduce WOF, especially in natural fibers. A mill may loom fabric at a wider width, knowing that hot water and heat processing will tighten it. WOF is therefore always measured after finishing, not from the loom. Technical data sheets and purchase orders should always specify the WOF of finished goods, not the loom state.