godet
A piece of fabric inserted into a garment along a seam or cut to lengthen the free edge, and to make a garment roomier and to add a wavy edge cf. gusset.
godet: fabric insert that adds flare and length to seams
A godet is a triangular or diamond-shaped piece of fabric sewn into a vertical seam or slit in a garment, typically a skirt or sleeve. Its primary functions are to increase room in the garment, add length to the free edge, and create a characteristic wavy or flared hem when the garment moves. Godets are cut to a point at the top where they meet the seam, then widen as they extend downward.
The fabric used for a godet is usually the same as the garment itself, though contrast godets are common for decorative effect. Lace, mesh, or sheer materials are frequently inserted into skirts for both visual and functional lightness. Wool godets appear regularly in midi and full-length skirts, while synthetic knits hold them securely due to lower fraying. The shape is precisely cut so the longest edges align exactly with the seam allowances of the garment body.
The godet differs from a gusset, which is typically diamond-shaped and inserted at a point of stress or convergence, such as underarm areas or at the crotch of trousers. While a gusset distributes strain, a godet is primarily aesthetic and functional for ease of movement. Godets are placed along straight seams; gussets occupy junction points. Both are sewn by machine or hand using a backstitch or running stitch, and both require careful matching of grain lines to prevent puckering.
Defects in godet insertion include puckering along the seam where the triangle meets the garment body, and uneven waviness in the finished edge due to stretch differences between the godet fabric and the main garment. The point of the godet must be reinforced, often with a small stitch or bar tack, to prevent fraying and tearing at the apex where two seams converge.
Godets are found in traditional dirndl skirts, evening wear, and contemporary fashion where movement and visual interest are desired. The term derives from the French word for a drinking cup or goblet, gode, referring to the godet's cup or bell shape when the skirt is in motion. In production, placement and angle of godets must account for the intended direction of hang and the weight of the fabric, as heavy materials may require deeper godets than lightweight ones to achieve the desired flare.