ottoman
A fabric with a pronounced ribbed or corded effect, often made of silk or a mixture of cotton and silk-like yarns.
ottoman: ribbed fabric with bold crosswise texture
Ottoman is a firmly woven fabric defined by prominent horizontal ribs or cords that run perpendicular to the warp. The effect comes from using heavier weft yarns, typically paired or grouped, that sit on top of a finer warp. The ribs are structural, not merely decorative, and create a fabric with distinct tactile and visual relief. This construction gives ottoman its characteristic stiffness and body, which made it historically valuable for tailored garments and upholstery.
The fibre composition varies by end use and cost point. Silk ottoman, made entirely from silk warps and wefts, represents the premium product and produces a lustrous, smooth rib with excellent drape for formal wear. Cotton-silk blends are more economical and widely produced for general apparel. Pure cotton ottoman exists but is less common in fine goods. Modern variants include synthetic substitutes using polyester or nylon, which offer durability and easier care at the expense of the subtle sheen of natural fibres.
The rib width typically ranges from 1 to 3 millimetres, though this varies with intended use. Narrower ribs suit suiting and lighter wear; wider, more pronounced ribs appear in heavier upholstery fabrics and furnishings. The tightness of the weave and the ratio of weft to warp thickness determine both the visual prominence of the rib and the fabric's weight and stiffness.
Manufacturing and quality issues
Ottoman is woven on conventional looms with multiple weft picks per shed or with doubled weft threads. The main manufacturing challenge is maintaining consistent rib definition across the width; uneven tension or varying yarn thickness produces ribs that appear broken or irregular. Pilling is common on cheaper blends, as the weft rides above the warp and loosened fibres catch easily. Shrinkage after finishing can distort the rib structure if fabric is not properly relaxed during wet processing.
The name derives from the Ottoman Empire, though the fabric's exact origins in Ottoman textile production are not documented with certainty. The term became established in English textile vocabulary during the 19th century and has remained standard in the trade. Ottoman occupies a middle ground between plain weaves and more elaborate pattern weaves, making it a versatile choice for both apparel and home furnishings where structure and visual interest are desired without the complexity of jacquard or pile fabrics.