piqué

Piqué is a plain-weave fabric distinguished by prominent cords or ribs that run perpendicular to the warp direction. These cords are created by floating extra warp yarns over multiple weft picks, then anchoring them at intervals, producing a raised surface on the face of the cloth. The ribs can range from fine and densely packed to coarse and widely spaced, depending on yarn count and loom settings. Cotton piqué is the most common variant in apparel manufacturing, though rayon and silk versions exist for higher-end markets.

The term piqué comes from the French past participle piqué, meaning "pricked" or "stitched," though the rib effect is structural rather than sewn. In woven goods terminology, piqué occupies a specific niche: it is heavier and stiffer than plain-weave cotton but lighter and less dense than twill or canvas. The cord structure gives the fabric dimensional stability and a formal appearance, making it a traditional choice for polo shirts, waistcoats, and structured dresses.

Manufacturing piqué requires loom setup that can manage float yarns without entanglement or snags during weaving. The floating warp yarns must be tensioned carefully to avoid excessive draw-in at the sides, which can distort the rib spacing. Cotton piqué typically weighs between 150 and 250 grams per square meter depending on cord spacing and yarn thickness. The ribs compress easily under pressure, so finished piqué must be dried and rested before cutting to prevent permanent pattern distortion.

Common faults in piqué production include uneven rib height caused by fluctuating warp tension, broken floats from abrasion during weaving, and misdraw where the floating yarns miss their anchor points. Finishing operations must be applied with care: excessive pressing flattens the ribs and destroys the fabric's characteristic texture and crispness, while inadequate drying leaves the cords limp and shapeless.

Piqué has remained standard in formal and semi-formal menswear for over a century, particularly in polo shirts where the stiffness of the cloth resists wrinkling during play. The fabric is also valued in home textiles for structured upholstery and decorative applications where surface texture is desired. Industrial-grade piqué, woven from coarser counts and heavier yarn, appears occasionally in workwear and technical textiles where a stiff, durable surface is specified.